Life is Brief – #6

【写在前面】“我们常说激情是短暂的,爱的激情的确短暂,对于生活的激情却可以很长。”

#6 路边野餐

The Chinese director Bi Gan’s debut, Kaili Blues, contains among other cinematic oddities a forty-one-minute single take through the windshield of a car. (Don’t worry, the car is in motion.)

— The Paris Review

Kaili Blues is prefaced with a quote from the Diamond Sutra to the effect that Everything is Now. Past thought cannot be retained, future thought cannot be grasped, and present thought cannot be held. Go with the flow. It’s a fair warning.

J. Hoberman

image source: theparisreview.org

Life is Brief – #5

【写在前面】“我们常说激情是短暂的,爱的激情的确短暂,对于生活的激情却可以很长。”

#5 潘尼斯科拉

There are castles that are university departments, like the picture-postcard fortress of Peniscola, on the Valencian coast.

— Jan Morris

image source: spain.info

一种关注(二十二)

2016年夏天的纽约电影基本被西村的两大影院 Film Forum 和 IFC Center 包揽着,后者有横跨一整个季节的费里尼回顾展,前者在老电影上毫不示弱,祭出了“一张票看两场”的大招,美其名曰,好莱坞的“黄金时期”就是这么干的(通常是一部A级片,也就是当时的大片,搭上一部B级片)。今天点开网站,IFC 又即将要分周推出基耶洛夫斯基的《十诫》,横跨五个星期。林肯中心曾在2014年10月的 White Light Festival 上用一周末的三天时间一口气放完了这十部可能是电影史上最棒的短片,当时只有幸看了前六部,大呼过瘾。时隔两年我们才等来了又一次放映,好事多磨。

Dekalog    8½    The Discreet Charm of the Bourgeoisie    The Obscure Object of Desire

《十诫》(1989, 55 min per episode, 9.1, 9.0)的放映自然要拜 Criterion Collection 的功劳,在最新的推出名单中我们赫然发现了它的名字,影片简介说这是 “one of the twentieth century’s greatest achievements in visual storytelling … … [It] focuses on the residents of a housing complex in late-Communist Poland, whose lives become subtly intertwined as they face emotional dilemmas that are at once deeply personal and universally human … … [and] arrestingly explores the unknowable forces that shape our lives. ” Criterion 的 DVD 和蓝光版本要到9月26号才正式发售,而纽约的影迷们,从下周末开始就可以在大荧幕上先睹为快了。

IFC 中心的费里尼全集将告尾声,这个系列是影院传统的保留项目 Weekend Classics 的一部分,只留给每周末上午还能早起的电影爱好者们。七月开篇的第一场是《甜蜜的生活》,而九月底收尾的则是《城市女郎》,最重量级的《八部半》(1963, 138 min, 8.1, 8.4)则毫无悬念地被安排在了 Labor Day Weekend。

有趣的是,在离 IFC 中心不远处 Film Forum 正如火如荼展映的 “Return of the Double Feature” 里面,我们找不到费里尼的名字,的确,好莱坞的黄金时代是希区柯克,黑泽明,波兰斯基,罗伯特·奥特曼,卡罗尔·里德和卓别林们的。长长的放映名单里其实也不乏欧洲人的身影,虽然想要找到安东尼奥尼和伯格曼之流的确有些困难,但我们依然有:戈达尔,阿伦·雷奈,雅克·德米,(同为意大利人的)德西卡,当然,让人有些意外的,是路易斯·布努埃尔。西班牙大师的晚期作品实际上已经敲开了美国市场和好莱坞的大门,他的倒数第三和第一部作品,《资产阶级的审慎魅力》(1972, 102 min, 8.0, 8.3)《朦胧的欲望》(1977, 102 min, 8.0, 8.3),更是为他赢得了奥斯卡提名(前者最终获奖)。Film Forum 也很老实,他们给布努埃尔选映的正是这两部。

  • Tue: That Obscure Object of Desire (6:35); The Discreet Charm of the Bourgeoisie (8:45)
  • Sat & Sun: 8 1/2 (11:00);  Decalog Parts 1&2 (11:20, 1:45, 4:20, 7:00, 9:35)

Life is Brief – #4

【写在前面】“我们常说激情是短暂的,爱的激情的确短暂,对于生活的激情却可以很长。”

#4 哈恩

Some [cathedrals] are, more than anything else, big: the Renaissance cathedral of Jaén looks preposterously out of scale in that middling category of city.

— Jan Morris

image source: Flickr.com

Jan Morris – Spain (Chapter Three)

第三章 埃尔切夫人

瓦伦西亚附近有一个小城叫埃尔切,1897年,人们在这里发现了世界上最著名的石质雕像之一——“埃尔切夫人”。这座彩色石质胸像雕刻的是一位强大的贵妇人,眉宇清晰,带着些许男性气质,有纯正的伊比利亚血统,看上去却又似乎留着希腊人的血液。两千五百年前的雕刻家就已拥有如此精妙的技艺,这位贵妇栩栩如生,逼真极了。西班牙的艺术特征也许正是溯源于此,不仅要做到逼真,而且要更高,更强烈,更笔直,一点也不能含糊。这种泾渭分明也是整个国家的写照:广袤的伊比利亚半岛和高原,不是酷暑就是严寒;人呢,非好即坏,非富即穷,要不是个虔诚的教徒,要不就是坚定的无神论者。

在西班牙,什么都得是确凿无疑的。斗牛比赛是什么?它的实质就是牛最终都会败下阵来;菲利普二世每天都被无穷无尽的卷宗包围;罗德里戈城的主教被刺杀时,人们发现他临死前竟然在整理万余张关于托雷多历史的记录卡片。在西班牙,不管是城堡,山洞,还是教堂,都有自己的街道号码;每一座大教堂的正面,你都能找得到一个标着它有多高的记号。西班牙人实在是太喜欢测量了,这里的路标是全欧洲最清晰的,这里的交警,他们的指挥号令也是最明确易懂的。每到一个书店,翻开任何一本厚重的大部头,不管讲的是什么,建筑,组织,花草,文学,地质,经济,通讯,或者西班牙女人,你都能发现满篇的注释和征引。

这种强势而现实的手法也浸透在西班牙各个时期的艺术作品里,伟大的画家表达自己时,都在使用你再熟悉不过的日常语言。埃尔·格列科画里那些略显神秘而拉长了的人像,每一个都长着一样的脸,那分明是西班牙人的面容,来自卡斯蒂利亚。委拉斯凯兹的人像更具悲悯情怀,戈雅更愿意把伟人画成是凡人的样子,1808年的抗法勇士,个个头发凌乱,肌肉线条也不像传统的英雄那样优美。即便是诸如毕加索,达利,米罗这样的现代派画家,他们也经常采用现实主义的手法和技巧。毕加索的《格尔尼卡》可能是有史以来最具普世情怀的绘画作品了,而当我们看着达利的加泰罗尼亚海滩,会感觉自己仿佛也置身于那无尽绵延的安宁之中。

西班牙的雕塑作品同样贴近现实,却又不乏高贵气质。马德里的西班牙广场上,唐吉诃德和桑丘骑着马向众人挥手致意;马德里王宫前的菲利普四世,被誉为是西班牙最好的骑士像,它由委拉斯凯兹设计,在佛罗伦萨雕刻完成,传言还经过了伽俐略的精密计算。在博尔格斯的米拉弗洛雷斯修道院,有一尊十七世纪的人像圣布鲁诺,逼真到似乎下一秒他就要开口对你讲话。西班牙人在相当长的一段历史时期里都是当之无愧的室内设计大师,尤其是狂野华丽的巴洛克风格。安达卢西亚北部的小城普列戈-德科尔多瓦还藏着不少西班牙洛可可风格的天才,那里教堂的墙壁,满是翻腾着的天使,镀金的树叶,极为戏剧化的装饰和壁龛,某个瞬间你会以为其实自己是身在莫斯科的地铁站而不是一处供奉神灵的地方。

在西班牙,建筑就是垂直的艺术,直角的美学,充满着灵感与激情。在法国人,德国人,佛拉芒人,意大利人和英国人的不断影响下,他们一跃成为罗马帝国之后最伟大的建筑师。西班牙人喜欢一切庞大的,孔武有力的东西:水坝,轮船,重型卡车,运河,公路等等。古罗马人给他们留下了雄伟的大力神塔(现存最古老的古罗马灯塔),参天的塞哥维亚输水渠,这些传统在加泰罗尼亚的帕尔马大教堂和赫罗纳大教堂里被继承了下来,无支柱单拱门的设计将内部空间拓展到极致,后世维多利亚时期火车站的设计也出自于此。在圣地亚哥-德孔波斯特拉有一座教堂,它的造型让你怀疑这里是否经历了一场地震,所有的柱子都向外倾斜,感觉整个屋子就快要飞起来了,亦或者,你看的是哈哈镜而不是它。说到这里,也许你真要怀疑西班牙这些夸张建筑的抗震能力了——不妨去一趟罗德里戈城,这里一个世纪前真发生过地震,而大教堂除了稍微倾斜了一点之外,几乎完好无损。

没有什么能比桥梁更能表现出西班牙艺术精神里的沉稳和力量。有趣的是,桥在西班牙的密集程度,让你不禁忘了这其实是一个河流极为稀少的国家。有时它的确只是个精妙的摆设,有时它就是帝王和高度的象征。梅里达的罗马桥,光桥拱就有六十个之多;图里河畔的瓦伦西亚,城市本来乏善可陈,但被那些极富装饰性的桥点缀之后,异常优雅和光彩照人;隆达那座举世闻名的搭建在塔霍峡谷上高达七百五十米峭壁上的新桥,是西班牙国土上最为壮丽的景观之一。

兼具力量和实际功能的,除了桥梁之外,就是教堂了。很多人喜欢西班牙北部那些古老而又简洁有力的西哥特式和罗马式教堂,在奥维多郊外早已荒无人烟的山坡上,你还可以找得到前罗马时期建造的小教堂,安静地俯瞰着山下早已工业化的城镇。摩尔人曾经在西班牙留下过深刻足迹,他们也是建筑高手,除了纯粹的伊斯兰风格之外,穆斯林统治下基督教徒建造的Mozarabic式教堂,还有后来基督教“光复”之后两种建筑风格借外力再一次的融合,都是西班牙独有的建筑风格。这里的清真寺往往更加阳刚,科尔多瓦大清真寺内部,密密麻麻像树林一样的支柱,方方正正的花园里整齐的橘子树和喷泉,高耸的尖塔,秉承着穆罕默德所信奉的节制,干净,和有序。在摩尔人统治期间,很多基督教徒逃亡到西班牙东北部地区,尽管那里的管辖相对稀松,你还是可以从他们造出来的房子里看到十足的伊斯兰元素:萨拉戈萨的圣保罗教堂尖塔是八角形的,明眼人一看就知道是偷师阿拉伯风格的结果。

教堂之于西班牙,就好比摩天大楼之于纽约,每一个像模像样的西班牙城镇都会有一个教堂。有的要和蔼亲切一些,比如穆尔西亚,理查德·福特就说那里教堂的塔跟望远镜没什么两样;有的带有明显的军事风格,尤其在加泰罗尼亚地区,那里的教堂更像是一座堡垒;有的除了大之外还是大,连中等城市都算不上的哈恩,城中竟矗立着一座大到有些失去比例的教堂;有的只是为了自我满足,马拉加的教堂就是一座简单的高塔。

不可否认的是,很多西班牙建筑都源于再简单和庸俗不过的动机:更好,也就是更大。卡洛斯五世不讲道理地在原本轻巧的阿罕布拉宫里加了一个罗马圆形竞技场式的庞然大物,同样是这位卡洛斯五世,把科尔多瓦大清真寺一点一点地改造成了教堂。同样的事情也发生在塞维利亚,格拉纳达等诸多地方,基督教人当时一心想证明自己可以修建更大和更浮夸的建筑。这种想法,和西班牙人对强人统治的偏好如出一辙,埃斯科里亚的修建就是一例,佛朗哥时期马德里城中块状的空军部大楼也是,这些建筑都在生动地告诉我们,专制背后是平庸。精美的托雷多老城对岸,后来不知怎的修建起了一座庞大的军事学院;阿维拉老城最好的景致,也被一座巨大的修道院挡住了一半。西班牙人似乎特别喜欢在原有的布局和平衡上做点文章,吸引你眼球的同时,也进一步动摇和拓展了你感知的维度。

Jan Morris – Spain (Chapter Two)

第二章 多彩的西班牙

萨拉戈萨往东,前往巴塞罗那的路上,矗立着一座叫做蒙特塞拉特的山,峰峦呈锯齿状,造型怪异。这是西班牙最古老的风景胜地之一,也是这个国家多元文化的代表——加泰罗尼亚的精神中心。和埃斯科里亚的死气沉沉截然相反,蒙特塞拉特修道院充满了尘世的气息:圣徒们手捧蜡烛,在修士的带领下,唱着圣歌在花园里行走;来自巴塞罗那的年轻人在邮局外欢快地围成一个圈,跳加泰罗尼亚传统的萨达纳舞;络绎不绝的游客徘徊在纪念品店里,神父带着微笑走在山间小径;神社大门打开,里头传来悠扬的歌声,蒙特塞拉特男童合唱团哼吟着的,是至少流传了七个世纪的旋律。

加泰罗尼亚是统一的西班牙里众多独立小王国中的一个,这些古老的族落,曾保持自治状态长达几个世纪之久。它们有自己的议会,军队,公务员,和法律体系,直到今天,人们仍更习惯用区域的名称来称呼彼此:加利西亚,莱昂,阿斯图里亚,卡斯蒂亚,纳瓦尔,阿拉贡,加泰罗尼亚,埃斯特雷马杜拉,穆尔西亚,还有安达卢西亚。在众多少数族群中,巴斯克算是最特别的一个了,被炮火几乎夷为平地的古城格尔尼卡,虽然早已面目全非,但至今仍让人觉得这是某个神秘王国的首府。巴斯克语极为复杂难学,一个动词竟有二十四种变式,“他给你”是一个词,“她给我们”又是另一个。这个地区的教堂就像停驶飞机的大仓库,建筑纹案非黑即白,而人们的天主教信仰也更内敛而不露声色。

西班牙的北方人常觉得自己比中部的卡斯蒂利亚统治者更先进,更开化,也更贴近欧洲大陆。半数的西班牙工业都位于这个地区,近代以来的思想运动也大多发迹于此,巴塞罗那和毕尔巴鄂,是西班牙为数不多的可以媲美欧洲大都会的现代城市。从瓦伦西亚或是萨拉戈萨驱车前往巴塞罗那,你会很容易发现自己一下子穿越到了另一个文明:如巴黎街区一般的建筑,街道,植物,还有停满船只的港口,头顶的铁路高架,空气中弥漫着的张力与激情。巴塞罗那这座城市永远在向外看,向北边看,看着新鲜事物涌来的方向。

西班牙人的文化归属感和对国家的忠诚,往往也只局限在对自己生活的村庄周围,这也许是因为,这个国家实在是太丰富多样了。当南方的果实成熟时,北方的花朵正含苞待放;巴斯克地区一头骡子都没有,而安达卢西亚则成千上万;在西北部你是看不到斗牛场的,但几乎每一个南边的村庄就会有一座;安达卢西亚的房屋是红瓦白墙,而到了阿拉贡就成了泥土一样的棕黄色。到头来,你对西班牙这个国家的印象和记忆,其实不过是来自这个或那个村庄和地区而已。

美食就更不必说了,圣塞巴斯蒂安人喜欢火腿鸡蛋,托雷多人爱做杏仁饼,奥维多以炖锅闻名,维戈有馅饼,而塞哥维亚则是烤乳猪。塞维利亚是西班牙凉菜汤的故乡,埃斯特雷马杜拉的村民会用蛇肉来养猪从而让火腿的肉质更加鲜美,马德里周边的阿兰胡耶兹,每到一年的三月初你就有欧洲数一数二的草莓吃,而只有在加泰罗尼亚,你才喝的上最正宗的乡村鱼汤。理查德·福特在一个世纪前这样评价:“西班牙的任何东西都有浓浓的乡土气息。”

Life is Brief – #3

【写在前面】“我们常说激情是短暂的,爱的激情的确短暂,对于生活的激情却可以很长。”

#3 委拉斯凯兹《布列达的投降》

One of the most Spanish of all pictures is Velazquez’s wonderful Surrender of Breda, nicknamed The Lances, in which the superb Marquis de los Balbases receives the sword of his defeated Dutch adversary with a smile of ineffably considerate regret.

— Jan Morris

image source: Wikipedia

Jan Morris – Spain (Chapter One)

第一章 巴拉塔里亚岛

在地理上西班牙跟一个岛并没有多大区别。葡萄牙,法国,直布罗陀,亦或茫茫的大海,不管你从哪个方向踏上西班牙的土地,都会感受到一种强烈的与世隔绝。摩尔人最初来到这里时真的以为她就是一个岛,而在他们之前的腓尼基人——传说正是他们命名了“西班牙”——则给这里取名为“兔之岛”。在我看来,西班牙的最佳入口在古镇隆塞斯瓦耶斯(Roncesvalles),历代当权者,大使,间谍,商贾,媒人,觊觎王位的公主,或是虔诚到一心要成为圣人的教徒,都在他们去西班牙的路上经过这里。1813年,英西联军正是在这里将入侵的法国人逐出伊比利亚半岛,而一百多年后西班牙内战期间,大批的西班牙难民也是从这逃亡到法国。

沿着路来到“斗牛之城”潘普洛纳,这个地方,小牛会在圣费尔明节(奔牛节)的时候肆意奔跑,曾有多达一万犹太人因一位王子的婚礼而惨遭屠杀,教堂的钟鸣就像是煤铲撞击在一起,夜晚在潘普洛纳入睡,你甚至会觉得枕头都是用骡子的毛做的。初到西班牙北部就是这样一种异样的感觉,这个国家,从版图上就是四四方方,边界线毛毛糙糙,像极了一块未经加工的牛皮。西班牙是欧洲平均海拔第二高的国家(仅次于瑞士),格拉纳达有欧洲大陆海拔最高的公路。伊比利亚半岛常年多风,有人说它猛烈到足以吹倒一个人。它的气候也极端得如出一辙,五月份翻开报纸,在科尔多瓦气温高达三十二度的时候,莱昂只有可怜的四度。

西班牙内部的河流非常少,有人打趣说,如果想要一睹马德里曼萨纳雷斯河的风采,你应该挑个下雨天登上去那里的公共汽车。横跨曼萨纳雷斯河的塞哥维亚古桥在菲利普二世时期大修过,当时有人劝这位国王应三思,到底是卖了这座桥呢还是花钱再买一条新的河流。正因如此,西班牙人往往都是聚水而居,在两个聚居地之间,通常是大片大片的空地。有些地方极为富饶,瓦伦西亚海滨是欧洲的风水宝地之一,这里的农业人口密集度仅次于埃及和印度;有些地方却恰恰相反,离它不远的穆尔西亚紧邻沙漠,那里的岩石是硫磺色的,河谷也从来都没有水。北部的洛格罗尼奥,小麦产量是东南阿尔梅里亚的六倍之多。南部马拉加的海岸线丰腴青葱,可以和任何热带地区媲美;而内陆高地上瓦砾遍野的村庄,则像极了秘鲁高原某些地方的阴郁和严苛。

西班牙对外面的世界有点不管不顾,她既不追逐时尚,也不遵循常规,现当代发生的大事件,二次大战,核战争,好像都跟她没有半点关系。也许这种守旧正是西班牙最特别之处。当法国人在修建哥特式建筑时,西班牙还沉醉在古罗马的风格里;当法国人进入文艺复兴,西班牙却开始建造哥特式。中世纪的蒙昧一直长时间残存于西班牙,18世纪,大学里还在探讨哥白尼学说是否正确;马德里的人民直到1866年才第一次听贝多芬。一次大战时,布列南将军驻扎在安达卢西亚,那里的人们竟以为他是要去打摩尔人……

西班牙的村庄彼此离得非常遥远,以至于每一处都似乎是一座独立的城邦,城里的人们只关心自己教区和咖啡馆里的事,而不是什么火箭和中东战局。在旁观者的眼里,穆尔西亚,萨莫拉或是哈恩这些小城丝毫不为文明的进步所扰,乡镇的市集上,屠夫就像削苹果一样轻而易举地在你面前宰下一头羊,母鸡被捆在在一起,鸡蛋上沾着土屑,商贩用棕色的厚纸包裹着你刚买下的小红萝卜。教堂外,神父热烈地交谈;溪水边,扎着马尾的女学生晃着书包溜达回家。一切都充满生机,一切却又如此安详。

西班牙人身上有种与生俱来的高贵气质,用一位法国历史学家的话说,他们傲慢,强横却又优雅。委拉斯凯兹的名画《布列达的投降》,画幅上的交战对手竟带着些许悔意的微笑;十三世纪西班牙的英雄德古兹曼,宁可摩尔人杀死自己的儿子也不愿在塔里法投降;七百年后,为佛朗哥将军效力的莫斯卡多上校也一样,为了托雷多城堡而牺牲了自己的儿子。西班牙虽然也有森严的等级制度,外人却很难察觉,不同阶层之间说着同一种口音,走在安达卢西亚的市集上,你甚至很难辨认谁是主人谁是随从。

没有什么比斗牛更能彰显这个国家身上的雄性特征了。斗牛,实际上是关乎死亡的神圣。运气足够好的话,你会有幸看见一次简短,冷静,优雅,而神圣的刺杀。一记干净,甚至让人难以察觉的一刺之后,此前还凶猛无比的野兽缓慢倒下,斗牛士如同任何一位获胜的侯爵一样,带着自豪和慈爱,优雅地向他的对手伸出手去,轻抚牛的双角。不管夹杂着多少虚情假意,这无疑是个戏剧化而动人的瞬间。

所有的这一切加起来,就是西班牙。从潘普洛纳沿着埃布罗河向东开,你就会来到桑丘·潘萨(《堂吉诃德》中那个头脑简单的农夫)所治理的那个巴拉塔里亚岛——它根本就不是一座岛。塞万提斯说,这里之所以叫巴拉塔里亚,要不就是因为它实在没有别的名字,要不就是因为这里低廉的地产价值(巴拉图拉就是便宜的意思)。我宁愿相信第二种说法,因为在我看来,这里除了西班牙之外真的是没有什么其他更有价值的东西了。

在欧洲,没有哪个国家比西班牙更自恋。尽管他们也说,自己的国家还是很落后,没有文化,不够庄重,也不值得信任,但更多的时候,西班牙人仍坚信自己是最好和最特别的那一个。在西班牙,外国人通常被视为劣等民族。如果你问一个西班牙人是谁打了特拉法加战役,他多半会说是西班牙人和英国人,绝口不提法国人;若是问他是谁参与了半岛战争,他会说西班牙人和法国人,只字不提英国人。这个民族不喜欢失败,而且也只愿意记住那些自己荣耀的历史时刻。

《堂吉诃德》只是一部关于西班牙人自己的书,它不像莎士比亚的戏剧,具有这样或那样的普世意义。西班牙在国际上享有声誉的名人也不是很多,怕也是因为,西班牙的伟人只为西班牙人而生。桑丘认为巴拉塔里亚是一座岛只是因为他的主人曾许诺要给他一座岛,西班牙也一样,她就是一座不是岛屿的孤岛,火车贯穿其中,四周被水环绕,她的确是一座岛,因为堂吉诃德就是这么说的。

Jan Morris – Spain (Prologue)

前言:埃斯科里亚和西班牙的要义

现位于马德里城郊的埃斯科里亚修道院始建于十六世纪,那是西班牙的黄金时期,在当时修建她的君王菲利普二世眼里,埃斯科里亚就是西班牙登上世界权力和财富顶峰的象征。这座大到令人叹为观止的宫殿,有86段楼梯,89座喷泉,千余扇门,13个礼拜堂,16个天井,2673扇窗户,百余里长的走廊……她大到自己本身就是一座官方界定的城市。甚至,站在马德里街头你都可以清楚地看见她,埃斯科里亚稳稳盘踞在瓜达拉马山脚,神圣而又来势汹汹。

埃斯科里亚无穷无尽的连廊和花园,体现了西班牙人对雄伟和霸道独有的钟爱,同时,她冷酷和苍凉的另一面,也书写着这个国家对专制和强人君主的崇拜与敬畏。埃斯科里亚的楼宇图案清晰精细,我们仿佛能从中看到,来自卡斯蒂利亚高原的中央权力是怎样影响着西班牙广袤国土的每一寸边缘。皇家陵墓被修饰得华丽而又条理清楚,你轻易读得出逝者间的谱系关系和长幼尊卑——西班牙人喜爱森严的等级和程式礼节。

西班牙人自古好战,罗马人征服这里花了足足两百年时间。中部的人会用陈尿刷牙,北部的人吃熊肉,喝牛血,西北部的人甚至会用犯人的腑脏来占卜吉凶。但是,这个民族又极其好学,从腓尼基人那里,他们学会了书写,使用货币,挖掘矿藏;从希腊人那里,他们学会了酿酒和种植橄榄;从罗马人那里,他们更是继承并发扬了整个文化。罗马帝国后期的文学家和哲学家几乎都出自西班牙。帝国衰亡,接手这片土地的野蛮的西哥特人很快为这更优雅的文化所臣服。

来自北非的摩尔人统治西班牙长达七百年时间,作为一个国家,西班牙再次升华了。他们的宗教权力中心科尔多瓦,在当时的欧洲是仅次于君士坦丁堡的第二大城市。那里文化繁荣,宗教自由,女人有平等受教育的权利,图书馆,大学,天文台遍地开花,而诗人和音乐家则被视为最高贵的人。摩尔人在给西班牙土地带来灌溉技术的同时,也教会了他们浪漫。当时欧洲的其他地方只把生活视为对死亡的准备,而在西班牙和科尔多瓦,它是生活本身,是无穷尽的认知和学习,并伴以光彩和欢愉。

在那七百年里,北方的基督教人并未完全投降,零星处在一种自治状态。渐渐地他们开始反攻,十一世纪时,基督教人夺回了西班牙中部高原,十三世纪末,他们占领科尔多瓦,而最终在具有历史意义的1492年,伊莎贝尔女王和她的丈夫费迪南把最后一个摩尔君主赶出了格拉纳达,阿罕布拉宫里的摩尔人不得不接受另一种宗教的洗礼;同一年,哥伦布受命出海远航,西班牙的顶峰自此到来。

菲利普二世从他父亲那里继承了自古罗马以来最广袤和强大的帝国领土,他的统治范围包括整个中美洲和南美洲,早期的美国,法国的大部地区,还有意大利南部,菲律宾,刚果,斯里兰卡,以及包括苏门答腊在内的众多岛屿。在那时,真理就是西班牙,这个帝国融合了基督教,摩尔人,伊比利亚和古罗马文明,她在文化上的自信和优雅,她对新大陆无可匹敌的了解,让任何一个邻国都望其项背。

十九世纪对于西班牙来说无疑是灾难性的,王位继承战争终结了他们对整个欧洲的统治,和拿破仑的交锋使他们陆续失去了路易斯安那和特立尼达,法国人一度还将伊比利亚半岛攻陷。虽然在独立战争中挽回了些颜面,但那时的西班牙不得不依赖于比自己更强大的盟友。他们在南美洲的殖民地一个接一个失去,最后,1898年的西美战争让他们不仅失去了古巴,还从此被挤出了国际新秩序的舞台。谁也不曾料到,自埃斯科里亚建起后西班牙的灿烂光辉竟是如此短暂。

Scripts on Films (August 2016)

Michael Atkinson (The Village Voice) on Voyage to Italy: Always interested in the mystery zone between documentary and fiction, even when the “reality” in question was his own marriage, Rossellini shoots his anti-drama with impassive mobility, always maintaining a distance but constantly reframing, insisting that “real” environments impede on the characters’ perspectives. It’s a movie you have to hold on to as it wanders—it will not grab on to you—and it was loathed upon its original release, except by the Cahiers du cinéma gang. (Italian critics wowed by Fellini’s La Strada, released the same day, called for Rossellini’s retirement.) Laying the brickwork for Antonioni’s existential parables a few years to come, Voyage to Italy is close to watching actual strangers suffer loneliness despite being together. It can leave an aching bruise, but only if you’re paying attention.

Stanley Kubrick on Decalogue: The Ten Commandments: I am always reluctant to single out some particular feature of the work of a major filmmaker because it tends inevitably to simplify and reduce the work. But in this book of screenplays by Krzysztof Kieslowski and his co-author, Krzysztof Piesiewicz, it should not be out of place to observe that they have the very rare ability to dramatize their ideas rather than just talking about them. By making their points through the dramatic action of the story they gain the added power of allowing the audience to discover what’s really going on rather than being told. They do this with such dazzling skill, you never see the ideas coming and don’t realize until much later how profoundly they have reached your heart.

Film Society of Lincoln Center on Eric Rohmer’s Six Moral Tales: In 1950, the French publisher Gallimard rejected a manuscript of a short story collection called Moral Tales, submitted by a thirty-year-old writer. In the early sixties, the writer in question—now an influential critic and a late-flowering movie director—resolved to adapt the stories for the screen, each inspired by F. W. Murnau’sSunrise, in which a man, committed to one woman, is tempted by another. The resulting series, which took a decade to complete, established Eric Rohmer’s international filmmaking reputation. Thrillingly intelligent portraits of self-centered, articulate, often foolish men and the women they belittle, idolize, stalk, and long for, staged with offhand visual imagination and full of electrifying, high-stakes verbal showdowns, the six Moral Tales represented an entirely new way of handling male-female relationships on screen.

None of the tales are chiding or moralizing (“It would be nonsense to believe that I am proposing a moral of some kind,” Rohmer once said of them), but they all show a distinctive willingness to expose their characters’ insecurities and pretentions—to put their male heroes through punishing educations. Taken together, these films are a kind of proving ground for Rohmer and his collaborators, including the producer Barbet Schroeder, the cinematographer Néstor Almendros, and the many vital, intellectually driven actors who found in them the space to develop new ways of playing out their characters’ debates and indecisions. They still remain the films most associated with Rohmer, and most representative of his many contradictory traits as a filmmaker: strict and yet playful, conservative and sensual, reticent but always ready to judge.

Life is Brief – #2

【写在前面】“我们常说激情是短暂的,爱的激情的确短暂,对于生活的激情却可以很长。”

#2 摩洛哥哈桑塔

The massive pink tower of the Giralda above Seville Cathedral is one of the supreme monuments of Muslim engineering, comparable only to the minarets of Rabat and Marrakesh in Morocco.

— Jan Morris

image source: Wikipedia

Life is Brief – #1

【写在前面】“我们常说激情是短暂的,爱的激情的确短暂,对于生活的激情却可以很长。”

#1 西班牙白色小镇

Vejer de la Frontera, perhaps the most spectacular of all Spanish villages.

— Jan Morris

1. Vejer de la Frontera

image source: www.zoover.com

孔飞力《中国现代国家的起源》

导论

7月13日

18世纪90年代,早在西方侵略以前,大清帝国已陷入危机。人口快速增长,贸易蓬勃发展的“盛世”之下,地方开支增大,官员日益挥霍铺张,政治制度已经无法同自身使命和任务相契合。生活在征服者政权下的文人政权一贯谨慎行事,“文字狱”的兴起使这种谨慎到了极点。同时,精英阶层对“结党”十分恐惧,他们对上层权力滥用提出挑战能使用的手段因而变得更加有限。和珅事件造成政权巨大的不稳定,然而,若是要求人们既结合在一起、又以一种非派系活动的方式来反对权力滥用,从逻辑上似乎是自相矛盾的。

7月14日

中国帝制晚期社会一个重要的问题,在于庞大的文化精英阶层和狭小的官僚精英阶层之间的鸿沟,他们都曾有过诵读诗书的经历,科举考试又以国家大事为题,使得文人心目中“以天下为己任”的信念一再被强化,人数相当多的一批人对于国家大事有着某种程度的认识,却又没有亲身参与国家大事的希望。

清代的一般情况是,通过省级乡试者但不够为官资格的,借担任高级官员幕友的方式获得参与处理全国性事务的机会。在19世纪动荡不安的过程中,高官的幕下需要吸收更多本无定所的行政干才,以应对军事和外交上的重要危机。

18世纪中叶,中国停滞的政治框架难以包容不断扩展并充满活力的社会和经济,不仅县的数目没有变化,县级官僚行政人员的人数也没有因政府职能的扩大而增加,县官们别无选择,只能依赖不受中央政府考核和控制的胥吏。

第一章 政治参与、政治竞争和政治控制

7月18日

终其一生,魏源在经书典章的框架内一直试图协调积极政治参与和忠君观念之间的关系,并调和道德操行和实际政治之间的关系。在这一过程中,他发展出一种理性论证,以一种同中国人长久以来关于根本性问题思考十分相通的方式,将更为广泛的政治参与同国家权力的加强联结起来。

魏源的政治性著作中一个始终存在的主题,是全国性政治生活的合法性边界问题,在中国帝制时代,同政治权力的分布相比,受教育者(文人)的分布要广泛得多,而且,文人们在接受教育时便将考虑政治问题当作自己的天职,在中国精英分子的政治使命感中,从来就包含着一种对于全国性政治问题的普遍兴趣。

从魏源的政治生涯中体现出来的,是中国社会秩序的政治模糊性,为官者和身处官场之外的人们之间,拥有的权力差别很大,但社会地位的差别却并不是很大。19世纪二三十年代,他在一些为官者的庇荫下,深深卷入党争。虽然国家通过这种方式将诸如魏源这样处于政治边缘的栋梁之材吸收进来,但是,如何使这种形式的政治参与得到道理上的认可,在魏源的思考中这个问题占据了中心地位,随着近代中国越来越深陷入危机,对这一问题的回答则更加迫切。

魏源的学术论辩,是以关于《诗经》的一系列研究为根基的。在他看来,《诗经》超越了日常政治中的即时性问题,诗篇提供了许多“根本性”问题讨论的素材。在一个日趋没落的时代,《诗经》提供了一种将精英阶层集结起来的力量,使得文人学士得以摆脱无动于衷做出投入公共生活的决定,促使谨小慎微的沉默为直截了当的意见表述所取代。

“呦呦鹿鸣,食野之苹。我有嘉宾,鼓瑟吹笙。……人之好我,示我周行。”魏源在研究中,突出的是鹿与鹿之间的交流,如果正确政策来自于讨论,那么精英阶层就必须克服自己对在公共事务上交换意见而被看作是组建朋党的恐惧。

究竟何人才可称之为“士”呢?魏源十分肯定地告诉我们,乡村并不是文人学士的居所,“出自幽谷,迁于乔木”,权势拥有者不应优先考虑一位乡村学人为自己的幕僚,而应选择一位其关系网和教育背景都跻身全国精英阶层一员的城里人。

政治真理产生于不同观念间的冲撞,魏源其实并不在说“天赋人权”和“言论自由”的合理性,他意在言明的是不同意见之间的竞争能够帮助专制君主更为有效地做出决策。“泾之渭浊,湜湜其沚”,人们只有通过比较和在与其相关的语境中,才能掌握政治的真谛。

魏源还相信,当国家处于紧急状态时,英雄式的领导是必不可少的,在极端危险的时代,循规蹈矩之人不适合担任领导人。魏源所想的不是革命,而是一个更具有活力、也更为强大的中央集权国家。在他看来,科举制度不仅无用,甚至有害,经由科举考试的本本说教而培养出来的文人,焉能使当今时代的风险得到有效掌控?魏源坚持认为,王道并不是道德的空谈,“王道至纤至悉,井牧、徭役、兵赋,皆性命之精微流行其间。”

第二章 从太平天国事变到戊戌变法

8月16日

冯桂芬在《公黜陟议》主张通过由下层官员选举上层官员,扩大政治参与。他引经据典,以表明自己的意见同中国先哲的看法一脉相通。在魏源和冯桂芬为扩大政治参与所作的努力中,他们都强调了文人身份中所有人在文化上具有共性的一面,在中国近代早期政治发展中,这是一个十分重要并承上启下的概念,要不了多久,民族主义便会成为人们身份上共同性的一个新的组成部分。

在《复乡职议》中,冯提出应当在乡村中建立更为密集的政治控制的基本机制,起用由百姓自己推选并信任的本乡人士。人们对这一建议的反应集中在两个问题:第一,官员和非官员之间建立起严格界限的必要性;第二,对于获得官员身份的精英人士将会滥用权力并无视公众利益的担忧。京官陈鼎认为,这一看起来似乎属于“公”的过程,只不过是为私人利益提供了一道盛宴,在这样一种制度下,谋求官位者难免会相互勾结,对权势人物溜须拍马。

在这里,冯桂芬的批判者持有一种冷酷的社会观,“民风不古”,当下的中国早已远离经典文本中关于乌托邦古代社会的想象:那是一个黄金时代,人人都有着对于公共利益自然而然的关怀,由于公共价值的内在化,威权式的强制也就没有用武之地了。

在中国政治著作中,自然产生的公民德行没有受到忽略,虽然古代的大公无私仍是一种遥远的愿景,但人们对于自己家乡社区自然而然的热爱为善政良治提供了有力的证明。但是,这种德行要在全国范围内实现,将变得无比困难:产生于家乡的公德,在县级范围内也许能促成善政良治,而在全国性的环境里却会变形,甚至会被摧毁。

第三章 从耒阳暴乱到农业集体化

在中国,朝廷所要对付的是根深蒂固的“创收”政治文化,尽管巡抚和知县们并不“拥有”自己的官位,但他们却有着相当于皇帝授予的权力来征收税赋。

自从1644年征服中国之后,清政府一直试图对农业税收予以保护,使之不受中介掮客们的侵扰,清政府将农民的税负保持在较低的水平,同时对拥有土地的地方精英百般威胁,不让他们插在国家和农民之间。然而,自1661年以后,用镇压方式处置逃税行为的事情再也没发生过,逃税现象不断恶化,到18世纪初,精英阶层逃税漏税的现象已经在地方上普遍流行开来。

18世纪20年代,雍正皇帝痛下决心要结束地方精英庇护他人土地的行为,然而,地方官员对于处置这件事情却极不情愿,他的继位者乾隆皇帝也发现,要彻底铲除地方精英们在税收上趟浑水的行为是办不到的。而到了19世纪40年代,这种行为进一步威胁到了朝廷的安危,那些靠着人们住地和应纳税土地之间纠缠不清的关系而过活的中介掮客,成了武力暴乱的领导人。历史环境的变化很快便改变了朝廷的看法,他们开始支持地方精英领导并依赖于地方资源、遍布中原各地的武装民团,以对付太平军的叛乱,维系现存的统治秩序。

自民国初年起,常规官僚机构便竭力试图重建自己对于地方税收的控制,除了对地方精英的控制之外,南京政府积极促使地方政府深入乡村,在县城和村庄之间建立起了新的行政单位——“乡”。当毛泽东在天安门城楼上宣布旧体制寿终正寝之时,他也继承了国民党所留下的县以下政府网络,并采取行政措施把几个村庄连在一起,将土地和居所连接起来。我们可以发现、在努力将未经授权的中介掮客从税收体系中排除出去这一点上,中国进入20世纪的所有政权都继承了旧王朝在这方面曾有过的雄心。

1952年,“土地改革”完成,它将地方精英阶层当作一种经济和政治力量予以摧毁,一个庞大的小土地拥有者阶层(“新中农”)被创造出来。然而,当农村经济开始恢复时,贫富分化重新露头,一个“新富农”阶级正出现并在控制中国乡村以及剩余产品的问题上成为国家的竞争者。

中国农业集体化是在新政权面临着如何保证城市供应这一严重问题时发生的,旧政权所面临的收入来源问题在现代条件下改头换面地出现了。为了确保城市能够得到低价粮食的供应,中共采取“统购”措施。这一措施的实行,是中国税收历史上具有重要意义的一步,这不仅保证了国家对于农民剩余产品的占有份额,而且在实际上还增加了这种份额(这实际上是一种税收措施)。然而,“统购”无法在实际上增加农业的产量,毛认为,合作化可以解决问题,而合作社的领导人就成为了国家在农村的税收代理人。

很不幸的是,这种高效率的汲取体系在大跃进期间被极大损害,在许多地区,干部们不得不解散集体化农业并将土地交还给农民,然而,党并不愿意放弃国家对于农村经济的控制,解决的办法,是把公社和生产大队转变为行政和社会服务的机构,20世纪60年代中国乡镇行政化的实现,也意味着国家对于乡村控制的实质性扩展。到1983年,邓小平肯定了将乡镇行政机构和农村经济区区分开来的做法,即便在人民公社制度瓦解的情况下,国家对农村社会的行政渗透仍然生存了下来。

在中国现代和帝制晚期的种种表象背后,就其深层结构而言,旧议程在新的环境下一再表现出来,集体化并不仅仅是“中国的又一个政府试图通过对于中介掮客的压制来增加收入”,这是一个关于旧有的需要如何在新的特定环境下被付诸实践的故事。毛泽东将在山西发生的情况视为阻挡党实现历史任务的障碍,这里的症结所在,并不在于“富农”是否会变成一个新的剥削阶级,而在于他们是否会在党控制农民和农村剩余产品的努力中,演变成党的竞争对手。毛泽东肯定也知道,这种现象的历史根源是何等深厚。

第四章 19-20世纪中国现代国家的演进

8月17日

魏源想要表达的是,文人参政是解决他所处时代问题的一种办法,如果能够实现的话,便能够使政治体制得到加强,起到防止像和珅那样以狭隘派系为基础的专横暴政的作用。但是,我们找遍魏源的著作,也看不到关于文人参与政治应通过什么机构或机制来实行的论述。

通过海路实行漕运的做法,揭示了19世纪20年代改革思潮的局限性,魏源解决问题的方案,着眼点不在于改造地方行政机构,而在于缓解小农的财政困境。通过海路实行漕运,能够在不涉及根本性问题的情况下,减轻乡村的最直接的负担。

19世纪40年代后,伴随着外来入侵一再而来的屈辱导致了一种充满政治敌意的新气氛,也为对权势人物发起攻击提供了新的机会。“清流”这一以松散方式结合在一起的群体,对权势人物的妥协外交痛加抨击,并尖刻地将之讥讽为卖国及以权谋私。“清流”一党根本不打算在广大文人中寻求支持,他们所追求的,只是在现存官僚行政机制内,加强自己的名声和巩固自己的前程。19世纪60年代以后,地方社会重建的领导人不仅包括文人中流,也包括下层文人,对于教育、对穷人的救济,以及维护地方治安等迫切任务,常规的官僚机构往往推到地方要人显贵的身上,在诸如汉口这样的商业城市,商会在官方的赞同下,正在地方服务管理上发挥着越来越大的作用。

根本性的转折出现于1895年春,《马关条约》签订,精英阶层对此做出了愤怒的反应。由康有为起草并经一千二百余名进京赶考的举人联署的“万言书”,其实际内容远远超出魏源当年的想象。康有为这班人正在走出“文人中流”的圈子,而通过19世纪90年代建立起来的各种学会,实现对广大文化精英人士的动员,他们的出版物接触到更为广大的读者群。

立宪派梁启超认为,文人参政的观念已不再适用当时的急迫情势了,这种观念过于倚重国家权力,也过于具有社会身份上的排他性,因此难以一般化而为广大群众所接受。到了20世纪初年,关于政治参与的看法在中国是通过一种从实际经验中得出的社区观念而表达出来的。权力分摊和利益妥协是宪政主义的精髓所在,梁认为,在地方自治所释放的解放力量冲击下,旧的环境和条件会土崩瓦解,自律的内在意念将为每一个公民和团体指明方向,因而,官僚行政机构的外在强制性措施完全不需要。梁启超这个时期著作的特点是,他坚信,宪政主义的本质不在于其工具,而在于其精神,由国家权力中枢任命的官僚机构的强制性行为,永远不可能像地方领袖治理社区时那样产生善政良治。

虽然中国20世纪的宪政思想家继续受到这种自下而上地建立国家权力的想法的影响,它很快就被具有革命思想的章炳麟浇了一盆冷水。他坚定地认为,要建设一个强大的国家,不在于使地方人士获得权力,而在于对常规的官僚行政机构实行改革,在当时的环境里,地方自治只会为土地赋税的大量流失打开大门。只有在官僚们的腐败受到无情的镇压时,人民才会支持政府,只有当人民看到他们所纳的税赋是被用于服务公众利益而不是中饱私囊时,他们才会心甘情愿地缴纳税赋。中国经历封建时代已经两千多年,这个社会因而特别适于实习中央集权的官僚行政制度,由于中国社会固有的平等观念,也由于中国没有世袭的阶层和等级的划分,使得中央集权有可能实行平等的法治。而在欧洲和美国,财产和特权凌驾于政治之上,它们就做不到这一点。在中国如果实行社区自治,只会造成地方精英势力的繁殖,并将他们的专横统治强加于各个村庄头上,中国所应做的,是法律的平等实施和对于官僚行政机构严格的纪律约束。

有鉴于中国20世纪的历史经验,章炳麟的看法似乎也同样令人疑惑难解,在缺乏社会对于国家机构制约力量的情况下,希望国家机构能够公平和自制的态度来对待公民,只能是为专制权力开放通道。

在大清帝国喧嚣不安的最后十年里,由梁启超和章炳麟所代表的两种声音,为此后的事态发展提供的只是负面意义的范式。在梁启超关于建立自治的宪政国家设想中,缺乏各省或全国范围内掣肘军事专制的机制,而章炳麟关于司法权力平等和公民平等的同时对官僚机构予以密切监督的设想,则又碰上了如何才能让政府置于法律之下的老问题。

中国作为一个统一的国家进入现代,尽管很多人谈到过“中国的分裂”或中国被列强“瓜分”,然而,由中央政府统治的单一中国国家的现实和概念,却经历了军阀混战、外国侵略和内战而生存了下来。在军阀混战的动乱岁月里,从来没有什么将某一省份分离出去的行动或建立联邦的建议,能够同中国人民关于国家统一压倒一切的向往相匹敌。由于国家统一的需要,产生了建立中央集权的领导体制的要求,这在中国宪政发展的建制议程上也成为重中之重的需要。

然而,我们不能因此便设想,今天的中国在国家统一问题上所拥有的基本推动力量同先前的各个时代是相同的,也许,对外开放至少在经济上打开了沿海省份实际上实行自治的大门,也许,关于政治参与、公共利益和地方社会的老看法,随着时间的推移,会以较少受到中央集权国家影响的方式而重新得到界定。

Patti Smith – Just Kids

p.9

We used to laugh at our small selves, saying that I was a bad girl trying to be good and that he was a good boy trying to be bad. Through the years these roles would reverse, then reverse again, until we came to accept our dual natures.

p.23

I had found solace in Arthur Rimbaud … …He possessed an irrelevant intelligence that ignited me, and I embraced him as compatriot, kin, and even secret love. Not having the ninety-nine cents to buy the book, I pocketed it.

Rimbaud held the keys to a mystical language that I devoured even as I could not fully decipher it. My unrequited love for him was as real to me as anything I had experienced. At the factory where I had labored with a hard-edged, illiterate group of women, I was harassed in his name … … It was within this atmosphere that I seethed. It was for him that I wrote and dreamed. He became my archangel, delivering me from the mundane horrors of factory life.

p.26

I would often stop before a grand hotel, an alien observer to the Proustian lifestyle of the privileged class, exiting sleek black cars with exquisite brown-and-gold patterned trunks. I was another side of life. Horse-drawn carriages were stationed between the Paris Theatre and the Plaza Hotel. In discarded newspapers I would search out the evening’s entertainment. Across from the Metropolitan Opera I watched the people enter, sensing their anticipation.

The city was a real city, shifty, and sexual. I was lightly jostled by small herds of flushed young sailors looking for action on Forty-second Street, with its rows of X-rated movie houses, brassy women, glittering souvenir shops, and hot-dog vendors. I wandered through Kino parlors and peered through the windows of the magnificent sprawling Grant’s Raw Bar filled with men in black coats scooping up piles of fresh oysters.

The skyscrapers were beautiful. They did not seem like mere corporate shells. They were monuments to the arrogant yet philanthropic spirit of America. The character of each quadrant was invigorating and one felt the flux of its history. The old world and the emerging one served up in the brick and mortar of the artisan and the architects.

I walked for hours from park to park. In Washington Square, one could still feel the characters of Henry James and the presence of the author himself. Entering the perimeters of the white arch, one was greeted by the sounds of bongos and acoustic guitars, protest singers, political arguments, activists leafleting, older chess players challenged by the young. This open atmosphere was something I had not experienced, simple freedom that did not seem to be oppressive to anyone.

p.47

One Indian summer day we dressed in our favorite things, me in my beatnik sandals and ragged scarves, and Robert with his love beads and sheepskin vest. We took the subway to West Fourth Street and spent the afternoon in Washington Square. We shared coffee from a thermos, watching the stream of tourists, stoners, and folksingers. Agitated revolutionaries distributed antiwar leaflets. Chess players drew a crowd of their own. Everyone coexisted within the continuous drone of verbal diatribes, bongos, and barking dogs.

We were walking toward the fountain, the epicenter of activity, when an older couple stopped and openly observed us. Robert enjoyed being noticed, and he affectionately squeezed my hand.

“Oh, take their picture,” said the woman to her bemused husband, “I think they’re artists.”

“Oh, go on,” he shrugged. “They’re just kids.”

p.49

Robert was not especially drawn to film. His favorite movie was Splendor in the Grass. The only other movie we saw that year was Bonnie and Clyde. He liked the tagline on the poster: “They’re young. They’re in love. They rob banks.” He didn’t fall asleep during that movie. Instead, he wept. And when we went home he was unnaturally quiet and looked at me as if he wanted to convey all he was feeling without words. There was something of us that he saw in the movie but I wasn’t certain what. I thought to myself that he contained a whole universe that I had yet to know.

p.63

Sometimes, during lunch break at Scribner’s, I would go to St. Patrick’s to visit the young Saint Stanislaus. I would pray for the dead, whom I seemed to love as much as the living: Rimbaud, Seurat, Camille Claudel, and the mistress of Jules Laforgue. And I would pray for us.

Robert’s prayers were like wishes. He was ambitious for secret knowledge. We were both praying for Robert’s soul, he to sell it and I to save it.

p.69

In early June, Valerie Solanas shot Andy Warhol. Although Robert tended not to be romantic about artists, he was very upset about it … … He respected artists like Cocteau and Pasolini, who merged life and art, but for Robert, the most interesting of them was Andy Warhol, documenting the human mise-en-scene in his silver-lined factory.

I didn’t feel for Warhol the way Robert did. His work reflected a culture I wanted to avoid. I hated the soup and felt little for the can. I preferred an artist who transformed his time, not mirrored it.

p.83

One of the highlights of our days was our trek to the American Express office to send and receive mail. There was always something from Robert, funny little letters describing his work, his health, his trials, and always his love.

He had temporarily moved from Brooklyn to Manhattan … …

His first letters seemed a bit down but brightened when he described seeming Midnight Cowboys for the first time. It was unusual for Robert to go to a movie, but he took this film to heart. “It’s about a cowboy stud on 42nd street,” he wrote me, and called it a “masterpiece.” He felt a deep identification with the hero, infusing the idea of the hustler into his work, and then into his life. “Hustler-hustler-hustler. I guess that’s what I’m about.”

p.107

We headed home holding hands. For a moment I dropped back to watch him walk. His sailor’s gait always touched me. I knew one day I would stop and he would keep on going, but until then nothing could tear us apart.

p.109

I always loved the ride to Coney Island. Just the idea that you could go to the ocean via subway was so magical … …

Nothing was more wonderful to me than Coney Island with its gritty innocence. It was our kind of place: the fading arcades, the peeling signs of bygone days, cotton candy and Kewpie dolls on a stick, dressed in feathers and glittering top hats. We wandered through the last gasp of the sideshows. They had lost their luster, though they still touted such human oddities as the donkey-faced boy, the alligator man, and the three-legged girl.

p.115

One time, when I was sitting in the lobby reading The Golden Bough, Harry noticed I had a beat-up two-volume first edition. He insisted we go on an expedition on Samuel Weiser’s to bask in the proximity of the preferred and vastly expanded third edition … …

It seemed like we milled around in there for hours. Harry was gone for a long time, and we found him standing, as though transfixed, in the center of the main floor. We watched him for quite a while but he never moved. Finally, Robert, perplexed, went up to him and asked, “What are you doing?”

Harry gazed at him with the eyes of an enchanted goat. “I’m reading,” he said.

We met a lot of intriguing people at the Chelsea but somehow when I close my eyes to think of them, Harry is always the first person I see. Perhaps because he was the first person we met. But more likely because it was a magic period, and Harry believed in magic.

p.131

Newly inspired, we walked back to Twenty-third Street to look at our space. The necklaces hung on hooks and he had tacked up some of our drawings. We stood at the window and looked out at the snow falling beyond the fluorescent Oasis sign with its squiggly palm tree. “Look,” he said, “it’s snowing in the desert.” I thought about a scene in Howard Hawks’s movie Scarface where Paul Muni and his girl are looking out the window at neon sign that said The World Is Yours. Robert squeezed my hand.

The sixties were coming to an end. Robert and I celebrated our birthdays. Robert turned twenty-three. Then I turned twenty-three. The perfect prime number. Robert made me a tie rack with the image of the Virgin Mary. I gave him seven silver skulls on a length of leather. He wore the skulls. I wore a tie. We felt ready for the seventies.

“It’s our decade,” he said.

p.156

Robert was devastated that Tinkerbelle had told me not only that he was having an affair, but that he was homosexual. It was as if Robert had forgotten that I knew. It must have also been difficult as it was the first time he was openly identified with a sexual label. His relationship with Terry in Brooklyn had been between the three of us, not in the public eye.

… …

Robert rarely spoke to Tinkerbelle after that. David moved to Seventeenth Street, close to where Washington Irving had lived. I slept on my side of the wall and Robert on his. Our lives were moving at such speed that we just kept going.

p.166

Jim and I spent a lot of time in Chinatown. Every outing with him was a floating adventure, riding the high summer clouds. I liked to watch him interact with strangers. We would go to Hong Fat because it was cheap and the dumplings were good, and he would talk to the old guys. You ate what they brought to the table or you pointed to someone’s meal because the menu was in Chinese. They cleaned the table by pouring hot tea on them and wiping it up with a rag. The whole place had the fragrance of oolong. Sometime Jim just picked up an abstract thread of conversation with one of these venerable-looking old men, who would then lead us through the labyrinth of their lives, through the Opium Wars and the opium dens of San Francisco. And then we would tramp from Mott to Mulberry to Twenty-third Street, back in our time, as if nothing had ever happened.

p.176

Observing people taking in the work I had watched Robert create was an emotional experience. It had left our private world. It was what I had always wanted for him, but I felt a slight pang of possessiveness sharing it with others. Overriding that feeling was the joy of seeing Robert’s face, suffused with confirmation, as he glimpsed the future he had so resolutely sought and had worked so hard to achieve.

p.190

One by one, he shared photographs forbidden to the public, including Stieglitz’s exquisite nudes of Georgia O’Keeffe. Taken at the height of their relationship, they revealed in their intimacy a mutual intelligence and O’Keeffe’s masculine beauty. As Robert concentrated on technical aspects, I focused on Georgia O’Keeffe as she related to Stieglitz, without artifice. Robert was concerned with how to make the photograph, and I with how to be the photograph.

p.192

I never anticipated Robert’s complete surrender to its powers. I had encouraged him to take photographs to integrate into his collages and installations, hoping to see him assume the mantle of Duchamp. But Robert had shifted his focus. The photograph was not a means to an end, but the object itself.

p.200

Our social differences, however exasperating, were tinged with love and humor. In the end, we were more alike than not, and gravitated toward each other, however wide the breach. We weathered all things, large and small, with the same vigor. To me, Robert and I were irrevocably entwined, like Paul and Elisabeth, the sister and brother in Cocteau’s Les Enfants Terribles. We played similar games, declared the most obscure object treasure, and often puzzled friends and acquaintances by our indefinable devotion.

He had been chided for denying his homosexuality; we were accused of not being a real couple. In being open about his homosexuality, he feared our relationship would be destroyed.

We needed time to figure out what all of this meant, how we were going to come to tears and redefine what our love was called. I learned from him that often contradiction is the clearest way to truth.

p.208

We were leaving the swirl of our post-Brooklyn existence, which had been dominated by the vibrating arena of the Chelsea Hotel.

The merry-go-round was slowing down. As I packed even the most insignificant of things accumulated in the past few years, they were accompanied by a slide show of faces, some of which I would never see again.

There was the copy of Hamlet from Gerome Ragni, who imagined me playing the sad and arrogant Danish prince. Ragni, who co-wrote and starred Hair, and I were not not cross paths again, but his belief in me bolstered my sense of self. Energetic and muscular with a wide grin and masses of curly hair, he could be so excited about some crazy prospect he would leap onto a chair and raise his arms as if he had to share his vision with the ceiling or, better yet, the universe.

A rag roll with hair of Spanish lace given to me by Elsa Peretti. Matthew’s harmonica holder. Notes from Rene Richard scolding me to keep drawing. David’s black leather Mexican belt studded with rhinestones. John McKendry’s boatneck shirt. Jackie Curtis’s angora sweater.

As I folded the sweater, I could picture her under the filmy red light of Max’s back room. The scene there was changing with the same speed as the Chelsea, and those who had attempted to imbue it with a Photoplay glamour would find the new guard was leaving them behind.

Many would not make it. Candy Darling died of cancer. Tinkerbelle and Andrea Whips took their lives. Other sacrificed themselves to drugs and misadventure. Taken down, the stardom they so desired just out of reach, tarnished stars falling from the sky.

I feel no sense of vindication as one of the handful of survivors. I would rather have seen them all succeed, catch the brass ring. As it turned out, it was I who got one of the best horses.

p.276

Dear Robert,

Often as I lie awake I wonder if you are also lying awake. Are you in pain or feeling alone? You drew me from the darkest period of my young life, sharing with the sacred mystery of what it is to be an artist. I learned to see through you and never compose a line or draw a curve that does not come from knowledge I derived in our precious time together. Your work, coming from a fluid source, can be traced to the naked song of your youth. You spoke then of holding hands with God. Remember, through everything, you have always held that hand, grip it hard, Robert, and don’t let go.

The other afternoon, when you fell asleep on my shoulder, I drifted off, too. But before I did, it occurred to me looking around at all of your things and your work and going through years of work in my mind, that of all your work, you are still your most beautiful. The most beautiful work of all.

Patti

p.288

There are many stories I could yet write about Robert, about us. But this is the story I have told. It is the one he wished me to tell and I have kept my promise. We were as Hansel and Gretel and we ventured out into the black forest of the world. There were temptations and witches and demons we never dreamed of and there was splendor we only partially imagined. No one could speak for these two young people nor tell with any truth of their days and nights together. Only Robert and I could tell it. Our story, as he called it. And, having gone, he left the task to me toe tell it to you.

林达《西班牙旅行笔记》

2. 塞哥维亚的罗马输水道

  • 巴塞罗那,罗马古城,葡萄酒坊
  • 输水道,纯净,刚柔相济,雄壮却不粗俗
  • 古罗马是西班牙最坚实有力的古代史

3. 古老的科尔多瓦

  • 哲学家塞内加的出生地(《论心灵的安宁》)
  • 并非摩尔人造就,在古罗马时就是文化中心
  • 罗马石柱,古桥,到天主教堂
  • 罗马人被野蛮的哥特人逼退

4. 小城托雷多的故事

  • 西哥特人的京城,近三百年
  • 节制,古朴的阿尔坎塔拉桥
  • 法兰克公主(信天主教)南下塞维利亚;父子兵戎相见
  • 589年,雷卡雷多国王签署对天主教的信仰

5. 阿拉伯人来了

  • 711年,北非入侵,直布罗陀——“塔里克的山”(阿拉伯语)
  • 西班牙南部,阿拉伯人滞留时间长了,文化就如泉水,渗入了安达卢西亚每一寸土壤
  • 阿拉伯西班牙的故事,就是安达卢西亚的故事

6. 阿尔扎哈拉的废墟

  • 公元十世纪,阿拉伯科尔多瓦的极盛期
  • 阿拉伯城墙,精致朴实,尖尖的四坡头,在西班牙到处可见
  • 1012年,柏柏人洗劫科尔多瓦,阿尔扎哈拉宫城几乎被夷为平地

7. 历经沧桑的科尔多瓦主教堂

  • 拉赫曼一世,在主教堂上建清真寺
  • (五百年后)1236年, “被光复”
  • (三百年后)十六世纪,被彻底改造,哥特式教堂从清真寺破顶而出

8. 塞维利亚的故事

  • 主教堂,在费尔南多三世攻下之前,就已不再是清真寺了
  • 费尔南多三世的圣骸盒,有四种文字

9. 阿尔汉布拉宫的故事

  • 格拉纳达摩尔人王朝的终结
  • 华盛顿·欧文对查理五世宫殿的贬斥
  • 1492年,格拉纳达被攻陷,这一年,哥伦布发现新大陆

10. 带着诅咒的黄金时代

  • 塞维利亚主教堂,哥伦布墓
  • 瓜达尔基维尔河畔的金子之塔
  • 犹太人被驱逐,(一百年后)摩尔人被驱逐(已被称为摩里斯科)
  • 十六世纪后,西班牙进入漫长的野蛮时期

11. 马约尔广场随想

  • 十八世纪始,比利牛斯山“坍塌”,法国启蒙思想涌入西班牙

12. 戈雅笔画下的战争

  • 太阳门广场上的“五月之战”(反拿破仑)
  • 戈雅,宫廷画家,晚年的战争悲剧素描
  • 法国人一走,西班牙内战就拉开序幕,和法国一样,循着共和,称帝,复辟,公社之间不停倒来倒去的节奏

13. 世纪之交的高迪和“九八”一代

  • 米拉公寓,力度,粗矿;巴特罗公寓,极度的精致

14. 不幸的西班牙第二共和国

  • 1931年,左翼共和政府上台,两年后,右翼再掌权,1936年,内战打响

15. 迪伯德神庙下的兵营

16. 深歌在枪声中沉寂

  • 洛尔加成长于格拉纳达地区,弗拉门戈和深歌的故乡
  • 弗拉门戈舞,是吉卜赛的树林,小酒馆的微醺和大醉,卡斯蒂利亚多石的山,安达卢西亚强劲的风,是西班牙不灭的灵魂
  • 洛尔加的《骑士之歌》(写的科尔多瓦)
  • “格拉纳达,这个城市,杀死了他的诗人”

17. 战争以谁的名义

18. 西班牙内战中的人们

19. 半个西班牙被杀死了

20. 战后西班牙,置之死地而后生

  • 佛朗哥“二战”期间的中立

21. 蒙特塞拉特的变化

22. 小镇杰里达和它的古堡

  • 延续着中世纪的加泰罗尼亚
  • 西班牙多山,在历史漫长的岁月里,始终是分散的,周边对中部的认同并不强
  • 杰里达,普通的山区小镇,整洁,安宁,干净

23. 殉难谷的十字架

  • 西班牙的内战纪念碑,一个教堂

24. 公投和第一次大选

  • 政治制度现代化和文化独立区分开来
  • 海滨小城西格斯

25. 到巴斯克去

  • 西班牙人热情洋溢而泛滥,宗教和世俗缠绕在一起
  • 毕尔巴鄂火车站的壁画
  • 河水环绕的老城外,晴朗,有雾气,深绿湿润的群山

26. 格尔尼卡的老橡树

  • 巴斯克人更愿意提卡斯蒂利亚而非西班牙
  • “埃塔”

27. 古根海姆的骄傲

  • 2.23政变,国王,政变之夜出现在电视上
  • 从1898年开始,西班牙人苦苦追寻国家富强之路,他们废黜了国王,却换来了国家混乱,他们引进了各色思潮,却导致民众分裂,他们想走强国之路,却在左右极端间振荡,他们想复制一场十月革命,却复制了一场内战灾难,换来了倒退,重新起步和三十六年佛朗哥的独裁统治。终于在佛朗哥死后,用短短几年时间,顺利完成了政治体制转型
  • 有时候,人只是凭一种直觉,到过今天的马德里,巴塞罗那,安达卢西亚,也到过毕尔巴鄂,格尔尼卡,还有贴着“埃塔”集会通告的小山村伊利扎德后,看得出他们把一切做好还需要时间,可是我们再不会以为,西班牙王国会变得分裂。几十年来他们在相互走近,而不是渐行渐远……他们在对话,那不只是政治对话,他们一起为加泰罗尼亚的高迪和米罗骄傲,一起为马拉加的毕加索骄傲,一起为巴斯克的古根海姆骄傲……那不是一个封闭民族虚妄的傲慢,罗马人神庙里奏响古乐,哥特人土地上纵马驰骋,阿拉伯人王宫里泉水淙淙,法国人圣坛下轻声祈祷,还有全世界的人,和我们一样,在西班牙的山川河流和大街小巷留下足迹

Scripts on Films (May to July 2016)

Anthony Lane (The New Yorker)’s script on MustangThe film will be of most use, perhaps, to anyone who is teaching “Pride and Prejudice” to a bunch of teen-agers. They will relish the scenes in which the five sisters, showing slightly more initiative than the Bennet girls, escape to watch a soccer match, from which all male spectators have been banned. The question that Ergüven puts, in the context of modern Turkey, is one that Jane Austen might have recognized: How, as a young woman, can you preserve not just your modesty but also your freedom of spirit and the play of your wits, when the purpose of your being, as laid down in social laws, resides in the finding of a man? How much of you remains, in that transaction? A fear of the answer shines most clearly, and most fiercely, in the eyes of a child—of Lale, who sees the future surging toward her, like the waves at the start of the film. She is the heroine of this bright and busy movie. She will not be drowned.

Museum of the Moving Image’s script on Theo Angelopoulos: Greece’s most prominent film director of the post-1968 era, Theo Angelopoulos (1935–2012) was a master cinema stylist. His investigations into history and politics, tyranny and resistance, and spiritual anomie and emotional devastation place him on equal footing with filmmakers like Andrei Tarkovsky, Bernardo Bertolucci, and Wim Wenders. When he emerged on the world scene in the 1970s, with a distinctive style marked by carefully choreographed compositions and tracking shots, he epitomized the great tradition of international art cinema at the end of the twentieth century.

记下的事:二零一六 辑二

5.9-5.13 大事记
LendingClub CEO resigns
Staples-Office Depot merger collapse
Apple invests $1bn in Didi Chuxing

5.16-5.20 大事记
Bayer offers to buy Monsanto
An EgyptAir jet disappeared over Mediterranean Sea

5.23-5.27 大事记
HP Enterprise plans to split
Alibaba faces U.S. accounting inquiry

6.6-6.10 大事记
Hilary declared victory in Democrats race

6.13-6.17 大事记
Terrorist attack in Orlando
Microsoft to buy LinkedIn for $26.2bn
MSCI holds off adding Chinese stocks

6.20-6.24 大事记
Trump fired his campaign chief
UK voted to leave EU
Telefonica considers delay in O2 IPO

6.27-7.1 大事记
Nearly all US banks pass stress test
Boris Johnson decides not to run PM
Mondelez to buy Hershey

7.11-7.15 大事记
China’s claim to South China Sea rejected
Terror attack in Nice
Mike Pence as Trump’s running mate